Overseam



(No Model.)

W. RAEUCHLE.

OVERSBAM.

No. 480,783. Patented AugI 16, 1892.

IIIEEEEE.

111: mams rusas co., muvo-umu., wAsulNaTon. n. c.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM RAEUCHLE, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

OVERS EAM.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 480,783, dated August16, 1892.

Application filed September 1, 1891. Serial No. 404.439. (No model.)

T0 all whont it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM RAEUCHLE, of Boston, county of Suffolk,State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Overseams, ofwhich the following description, in connection with the accompanyingdrawings, is a specification, like letters on the drawings representinglike parts.

The object of this invention is to produce an overseam, moreparticularly for button'- holes, whereby the finished buttonhole isprovided With a purl on both top and bottom sides ofthe material, thusmaking a double face or finish, the buttonhole when completed presentingsubstantially the same appearance on each side of the material.

My invention therefore comprehends an overseam for buttonholes, whichcomprises a series of single needle-thread alternate edge and depthstitches, the edge and depth stitch loops of said single thread beinginterlocked between the adjacent depth stitches below the material toform a purl, and an upper purl-thread extending in one direction aroundthe edge stitch and in the opposite direction around the depth stitch atthe upper side and along the edge of the material to form an upper purlthereon above and substantially in line with the lower purl,substantially as will be described.

Other features of this invention will be pointed out in the claims atthe end of this specification.

Figure 1 of the drawings represents an edge View of a portion of abuttonhole, the same being greatly enlarged to show the interlocking ofthe various threads employed and to avoid confusion. Fig. 2 is amodification to be referred to.

The material A is herein represented as of two plies or thicknesses; butit is obvious that as many thicknesses may be employed as is desired,according to the work to be done. As shown herein, two gimps a a areemployed, one on the top and the other at the under side of thematerial; but either one or both of such gimps may be dispensed with forsome classes of Work. The needle-thread b (shown by heavy black lines)makes the depth and overedge stitches, and, crossing over the gimp c atthe top of the material, the loop of said needle-thread, as eachoveredge stitch is loop b3.

formed and interlocked, crosses over and incloses the lower gimp a. Thethread c, which will be designated hereinafter as the upper dpurl-thread, is laid around the needle-thread above the material, aswill be described. A looper-thread CZ is employed to bind or lock thedepth and overedge stitch loops on the under side of the material. Whileit is preferable to employ such looper-thread d it is not absolutelynecessary, as the depth and overedge stitch loops could be made to forma chain-stitch in usual manner, as in Fig. 2, the overedge-stitch loopb4 passing through the preceding depth-stitch loop b3, the nextdepth-stitch loop h5 passing through said overedge-stitch loop h4, andso on.

In describing the formation of the stitch it will be supposed that theoveredge stitch has been formed, the loop b extending below the materialand in front of lthe gimp a', a loop d of the looper-thread beingextended through the loop h. The needle-thread is then passed over thegimp a preparatory to making the depth stitch, and the upper purl-threadc is passed around the needle-thread, as at c', the said needle-threadthen descending into the material, as shown by dotted lines b2, passingthrough the loop tl of looper-thread previously formed and making thedepth-stitch Upon emerging at the top of the material and at the rear ofthe gimp c the upper purl-thread c is again passed around theneedle-thread at C2. The needle-thread is then carried down to form theoveredge stitch, passing through the former depth stitch h3, thus makingthe second overedge-stitch loop h4, the looper-thread being passedthrough the loop b4 thereafter, as it was passed through the firstedge-stitch loop b. The stitch is then continued, as described,throughout the extent of the overseam. It will be noticed that the upperpurl-thread cis interwoven, as it were, through the depth and overedgestitches of the needle-thread at the top of the material, therebydrawing them .together to form a strong and durable edge or purl uponthe upper side of the material, thus making a very desirable overseainfor buttonholes. The upper purl-thread c, used as described, forms apurl at the upper side of the material, while the interlocking depth andoveredge'stitch loops between the adjacent depth ICO stitches form thepurl on the lower side of the material, thus making an overseam with apurl at both faces, so that the face and back of the material is fullyfinished, the upper and lower purls being in substantially the samevertical plane and parallel to the edge of the material,

I claiml. The herein-described overseam, which comprises a series ofsingle needle-thread alternating overedge and depth stitches across theedge of and in the material adjacent to the edge, respectively, theoveredge and depth stitch loops of said single thread being interlockedone with the other below the material between the adjacent depthstitches to form a purl contiguous to and in the direction of the loweredge, and an upper purl-thread extending in one direction aroundadjacent parts of the over-edge stitch and in the opposite directionaround adjacent parts of the depth stitch at the upper side of thematerial, an upper purl being thereby formed on and along the edge ofthe material and parallel thereto above and substantially in line withthe lower purl, substantially as described.

2. The herein-described overseam, which p comprises a series ofalternating overedge and depth stitches across the edge of and in thematerial adjacent to the edge, respectively, a loop of looper-threadbeing passed through the overedge-stiteh loop,'the adjacent depthstitchloop passing through the loop of looperthread, the succeedingoveredge-stitch loop WILLIAM RAEUCHLE.

Witnesses:

GEORGE W. GREGORY, EMMA J. BENNETT.

